Ashley Moran vividly recalls the inaugural completion of the four-day Gidjuum Gulganyi Walk in northern New South Wales, a journey undertaken long before the trail officially opened to the public in April this year.
Back in 2020, when the newest addition to NSW’s Great Walks was little more than a concept, the path lay unmarked and challenging. “It had merely been pink-tagged by the trail construction team, and I found it quite arduous to navigate through the dense rainforest, trying to spot those tiny pink ribbons,” he reflects.
Moran’s deep connection to this project began in 2018. As chair of the Widjabul Wia-bal Gurrumbil Aboriginal Corporation, he collaborated closely with the NSW National Parks and Wildlife Service and the Tweed Byron Local Aboriginal Land Council, which represents the Minjungbal clan of the Tweed Valley, part of the rich tapestry of the Bundjalung nation.
As a proud Bundjalung man, Moran’s ties to the land are personal. The southern segment of the trail winds through his people’s territory, while the northern stretch is stewarded by the Minjungbal people.
To mitigate environmental impact, the Gidjuum Gulganyi, which translates to “Old People’s track,” closely follows ancient pathways that trace the southern rim of the Tweed Caldera, created by the eruption of the Wollumbin volcano—formerly known as Mount Warning—23 million years ago. Remarkably, only 19 kilometers of the 42-kilometer walk are newly constructed, making the Gidjuum Gulganyi a rare glimpse into a landscape that has nurtured its inhabitants for tens of thousands of years, with its lush temperate and subtropical rainforests, waterfalls, and expansive valleys.
In 2020, Moran set out to conduct “ground truthing” for two proposed routes through Widjabul Wia-bal country, ensuring that Aboriginal sites remained unharmed. Partnering with local and Tasmanian track builders—renowned for their expertise—he undertook meticulous checks.
Most Aboriginal sites identified by the WWGAC fell outside the trail’s path, but some lay perilously close enough to necessitate route adjustments. “We had to ensure that significant sites wouldn’t be inadvertently discovered by hikers. For that reason, we’ve kept the exact locations of these sites confidential, ensuring they are set a good distance from the trail to prevent unexpected disturbances,” Moran explains.
This endeavor has significantly deepened Moran’s appreciation for the land. “It made me ponder how the Old People navigated these trails when the rainforest spanned 75,000 hectares,” he says. Due to European land clearing, only 1% of the original Big Scrub rainforest remains, with the historic walking tracks often repurposed as logging routes in the late 1800s.
“These trails have been in use for over 22,000 years, traversed by various clan groups within the Bundjalung nation,” Moran adds. “People from the tablelands would hike to the coast in summer for food, and elders would traverse the paths to reach Wollumbin, a site of great significance.”
They would keenly observe nature’s seasonal cues—blooming flowers and the return of migratory birds—to determine when and where to gather food or partake in ceremonies. “These practices and rituals were interwoven into our teachings and cultural heritage,” he notes.
“This trail represents our traditional pathways—our version of highways—facilitating travel through the landscape. Much like modern travelers who stop at service stations for a break, those coming down the ridgelines would rest at designated spots for food and water,” he adds.
Now, three of these resting places along the Gidjuum Gulganyi have been transformed into campsites, allowing hikers to pitch tents on sturdy platforms nestled among towering eucalypts, with the final site offering breathtaking views of the Wanganui Gorge.
Initially, the WWGAC approached the idea of a multiday walk with caution. Yet as discussions with National Parks progressed, Moran found them evolving towards exploring business opportunities for community members and leveraging the walk to celebrate their heritage.
“We want to ensure this isn’t just a tourist trail but a gateway to understanding our Country,” Moran emphasizes. Excitingly, plans are underway to develop cultural tourism experiences led by Widjabul Wia-bal guides at Minyon Falls, the endpoint of the walk, set to launch by late 2026. The hope is for Indigenous custodians to maintain the trail, conduct cultural tours, and even establish businesses like coffee vans, providing transportation for hikers.
The NPWS is actively collaborating with Widjabul Wia-bal native title holders and the Tweed Byron Local Aboriginal Land Council to craft cultural interpretation signage. This will enrich the experience for Gidjuum Gulganyi hikers, allowing them to appreciate the cultural significance of the landscape they traverse during their four-day adventure, with installations expected before June 2026.
Moran’s vision is clear: “We aim for this trail to serve as more than just a recreational route—it’s an opportunity to deepen understanding and appreciation of what this land represents to both the Widjabul Wia-bal and Minjungbal people, essentially revitalizing the walk and breathing life back into it.”
In one of Moran’s favorite segments of the walk, the trail unveils an impressive canyon vista, the breathtaking beauty of which left an indelible mark on him during his first hike. “That view took my breath away, gazing north towards the NSW-Queensland border, while looking back at Wollumbin over the Tweed Valley. It was utterly stunning.”
